All members get discounts with Amsoil.  I’m currently trying to set up a page to where you can order directly through Nissan-Nation.com. Until then simply email TurnerDistribution@gmail with “Order” in the subject. Tell me what you want and I’ll get your Nis-Nat discount price.

Be sure to include your shipping information & a contact number.

Tools needed:
3/4 and 1/2 drive ratchets
17mm wrench and socket
19mm socket
adjustable wrenches for the bolts on all the rods for adjustment purposes
large pair of pliers
hammer
pry bar
Install time about 4hrs give or take your experience and knowledge

here are the new arms

Here are the factory arms you will be replacing.

And the traction rod

Now on to the step by step on the passengers side since I completed the driver’s side first.

remove the 2 bolts that hold the toe rod in place you will need a 19mm socket and wrench for both bolts

compare the rods side by side and adjust the new rod so that all the mounting holes line up with the factory rods holes

install the new rod this is where you may need to use the pry bar to pull the spindle into place to insert the bolt. install the rear bolt first its much easier

now for the rear upper control arm (RUCA) this is a tad bit tricky as the rear bolt is a factory camber adjustment bolt and must be removed by turning the nut only, because of a keyway built into the bolt for the camber washer. simply remove the nut first and then the bolt

remove the nut and bolt up front using the 19mm socket and wrench and then the camber bolt in the rear using a 19mm socket and a 17mm wrench. make sure to turn only the nut so you dont mess up the keyway on the bolt

side by side comparison again use the same method on the RUCAS that you did on the toe.

Note:be sure to place the rear camber bolt in a similar position as you did on the driver side so that your camber will be similar until further adjustment

now for the Traction bar. This bar also has a camber/toe adjustment bolt in the rear as well,just treat it the same as you do the RUCA bolt and all else is the same.

remove the front bolt using the 19mm socket and wrench as you have so far and then remove the rear camber bolt using the 19mm socket and a 17mm wrench. remember to only turn the nut and then remove the bolt

line up the mounting holes as you have done before and install

Install complete

Now for the front tension rods this is by far the easiest part. You will only need a 17mm wrench and socket

This is the rod you will be removing it is bolted to the lower control arm and the power brace.

remove these 2 nuts using the 17mm socket

remove this bolt using the 17mm wrench and socket

side by side comparison, just line up the mounting holes and make sure to adjust both the new tension rods the same way, i had a little bit of difficulty with this because i did the passenger side one way and the driver another and ended up having to go back and redoing both of them after a test drive

reinstall by placing the studs in place first and the spherical bearing last you may have to pull the control arm towards you a lil to slide the bolt into place but its not to difficult

install of the tension arms is now complete

heres what it should look like when completed

After an install of this caliber i would highly recommend an alignment. you can pretty much “eyeball it” so that it is driveable with minimum fuss but an alignment is necessary. The overall install was quite simple and straightforward, the products are well made and of high quality for the price and i would def recommend them to anyone that is on a budget and is wanting as much adjustability from their suspension as possible. The welds are good and solid, the overall design is precise and the adjustability is very beneficial. This arm package is definately on par with all other arms on the market, ISIS has created an Outstanding product and i will def be purchasing more parts from Enjuku Racing which as of now is the Exclusive dealer of all ISIS products. For more info or price check out www.enjukuracing.com or call 1888-SR20DET and ask for Ken Harrison

I recently bought ISIS’s new 3in Straight Through Race Exhaust. This exhaust has no mufflers or resonators and is 3 inches straight through that splits into two 3 inch outlets at the axels. The wide open design is great for a turbo set-up and works fine for na KA.

Installation of the exhaust is unbolt, un-hang, bolt and hang. Everything went smoothly and was as straight forward as it gets. I suggest you get new rubber hangers if you are installing it on an older car because the stock ones are probably worn out and stretched causing the exhaust to hang low.

So you know, I have a header and test pipe in front of this exhaust. After I got it on, I fired it up and it is significantly louder than my previous dual n1 style exhaust. The sound is raw, loud, ridiculous, and awesome all at once. It’s loud, yet still sounds good. Driving around at low rpms it’s loud yet you can deal with it. At high rpms hell opens up as you trumpet forward. If you want and exhaust that is no-nonsense and raw, this is it!

Installation:

Tools needed:

Ratchet
17mm short and deep well sockets
17mm box end wrench
Shampoo/soap (I’ll explain in a minute)
PB Blaster

Step one: Raise and support the vehicle safely on jack stands.

Step two: For those of you replacing stock exhausts, spray down the bolts with some PB Blaster to make life easier when you start to unbolt the exhaust.

Step three: Unbolt the exhaust from the catalytic converter, or test pipe in my case.

Step four: Using soap or shampoo soap up the stock hangers to make removing them MUCH easier. There is a hanger off the back of the trans (I removed mine previously), one just before the axels, one after the diff, and two near the bumper. Remove the hangers from the rubber.

Boo Michigan rust.

Step five: Remove old exhaust.

Step six: Bolt up the first half of the exhaust.

Step seven: Soap up the hanger and slide it into the rubber support.

Step eight: Bolt up second half of the exhaust.

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs122.snc1/5255_548267760378_52707109_32356549_999563_n.jpg

Step 9: Soap up the hangers and slide them into the rubber supports.

Installed:

Here is a sound clip of the exhaust from idle to about 3,000 rpms:

A plague to the 240 family is a soft, leaky power steering system. In an effort to help correct this, Enjuku Racing’s ISIS product line offers a Stainless Steel Power Steering Line. On top of replacing leaky lines and improving steering feel, the line also allows for more clearance when going turbo and makes converting from 1989/1990 power steering systems to 1991+ much easier.

The line comes with everything you need for installation. The installation it’s self is not bad at all. Just expect to get a little messy with the power steering fluid.

After installation I noticed the steering feel is more direct and turn in is more responsive. I have not experienced any leaks from the line after about a month or so and a drift event.

Tools needed:

A set of metric open ended wrenches
Drain pan
New Power Steering fluid

Installation:

Step one: Make some room for you to work by removing the air filter and mass air flow sensor.

Step two: Place a drain pan under the rack to catch the fluid and remove the bottom line going into the steering rack.

*note* mine was old and broke so don’t be surprised if yours does too

Step 3: Remove the bracket holding the lines inside fender.

Step four: Remove the top part of the hose from the power steering pump.

Step five: Insert the fittings into the PS pump and Rack separately from the line using the washers that came with the line.

*note* Be careful of the o-ring on the fitting and don’t lose it.

Step six: Install the line onto the fittings and snug it down.

Step 7: Fill with new fluid and give the wheels a few turns back and forth with the engine running to circulate the fluid and you are good to go!

Oh yeah, if you don’t know this event, you’re braindead… (Or addicted to WOW). Do I really need to add anything about this event? Didn’t think so… Soon we’ll have this event’s coverage

ISIS is a new company offered by Enjuku Racing, whose goal is to proved high quality parts at an affordable price. The parts they offer range from aluminum radiators and intercoolers to under drive pulleys and exhausts. Companies like ISIS allow those of us who are feeling the pinch of these tough economical times to upgrade their cars with good quality parts without breaking the bank.

I recently installed my ISIS Aluminum Radiator and two 12in ISIS Fans for my 240. I never realized how much of a difference in cooling this would make. Let us start with the price. Listed at $199.99, it is one of the least expensive aluminum radiator of it’s kind.

With the stock radiator and fan set up I can’t say I was over heating but I did notice that at events on hot days the temp gauge would wander a little higher than I liked. So when I found the ISIS radiator I figured I would give it a shot and upgrade.

Compared to stock the ISIS radiator is MUCH thicker. This is one of the things you notice once you install it. If you are keeping your stock clutch fan you may have trouble re-using the stock shroud because the radiator is thicker, I don’t know for sure because I used the ISIS fans and got rid of the clutch fan. The radiator has mounts for the stock electric fan built in so you can re-use it. As far as looks, the radiator is shiny but not quite polished like Koyos and the sort but could be polished w/ a little elbow grease if that is what you are worried about.

The installation is pretty straightforward and easy. The fit is a bit tighter but again you have to realize the radiator is significantly thicker than stock. Due to a previous radiator fitment issue, I had modified the bottom mounts and the top mounts, so I wound up making my own top mounts. Had I not modified my mounts I could have re-used my stock brackets and all. So the radiator install is pretty much a remove and replace deal.

Adding the fans to the situation isn’t hard at all and is more than worth the $34.99 per fan. These fans are awesome, low profile and flow plenty of air.

After I got them installed I took it for a drive into town. I am not running a t-stat and it was a cool night so I knew it was going to take a while to warm up… I didn’t know that the needle wouldn’t even hit the cold mark until I got into town and sat in a drive through for five minutes. The car only started to get warm if it was standing still, if it was moving, the temp gauge would be below the cold mark. I wound up letting the car sit for about a half an hour until it finally got warm enough for the fans to kick on… for about 15 seconds… then it had cooled off enough to shut them off.

After driving in some stop and go traffic on some hot days, the car has no trouble staying at operating temp. Even under spirited driving the car stays nice and cool and if there is good air flow through the radiator the fans barely ever need to turn on.

Installation:

Tools needed:

Ratchet

1 Ratchet Extension

8mm socket

10mm Socket

10mm Wrench

Phillips Head Screw Driver

Long Flat Head Screw Driver

Wire Clippers/stripers

Electrical Tape

1 set of radiator fan mounts from your local auto parts store per fan.

1 gallon of coolant (get more bang for the buck and just get coolant and mix it yourself other wise you are paying for water)

*note* I HIGHLY recommend having a 10mm ratcheting wrench to help w/ the removal of the clutch fan *note*

You will need to be able to get under the car at times so Raise and support the front of your car on good jack stands.

Step 1: You will need to drain the stock radiator. Do this bay taking out the drain plug on the bottom driver’s side of the radiator. It also helps to open the fill cap.

Step 2: Remove the intake to make room for removing everything else.

Step 3: Go ahead and remove the upper and lower radiator hoses from the radiator. This will give you room to remove the shroud.

Step 4: Remove the bolts holding the fan shroud to the radiator. There are 4 in total, one in each corner.

Step 5: Remove the two bolts holding the electric fan to the radiator. Both bolts are at the top.

Step 6: Now you are ready to remove the shroud. The shroud comes apart in three parts. There is a top, bottom and then a small part that slides out to make room for the clutch fan. The top and bottom is bolted and the third part clips in. My shroud was held together w/ zip ties in place of bolts. The bolts are located about half way down on both sides of the radiator.

Step 7: Remove the upper fan shroud.

Step 8: Unplug and lift out the stock electric fan.

Step 9: Remove the bottom shroud. This part is kind of tricky, but if you hold your mouth right and finagle it you can get it out.

Step 10: Remove the radiator by lifting it out.

Step 11: Now we need to remove the clutch fan. This is where a 10 mm ratcheting wrench will come in handy. To remove the fan just take the four nuts off the water pump pully.

Step 12: Replace the nuts that hold the water pump pulley in place.

Step 14: Now we need to get your new electric fans ready to install and work like the stock ones. What you need to do is clip the connector off your stock electric fan. Be sure to leave plenty of wire on the connector.

Step 15: Now we wire the fans to the switch. Strip the wires enough to wire them together and tape them up. It’s pretty straight forward, blue to blue, black to black.

Step 16: Mount the fans to the radiator with mount kits from you local parts store. They slide through the radiator and have clips that secure it in place.

Step 17: Put the little rubber boots from the stock radiator onto the new one.

*NOTE* I didn’t do this because of previous mount modifications made to my car.

Step 18: Slide the radiator into place and blot up the top brackets.

*NOTE* I made my own top mounts out of spare sheet metal my friend had laying around. This was done by marking holes for the core support bolt, top radiator mounts, and for the passenger one, the intake support. Then I drilled out the holes and cut to fit. I used a spare nut and bolt to hold the intake in place.

Step 19: Connect the upper and lower radiator hoses.

Step 20: Connect the fan plug.

Step 21: Reconnect the intake and other misc. hoses that got unplugged.

*NOTE* Do NOT forget to re-attach the over flow hose. Also the cap has a chain on it. I put mine on the part that the over flow hose connects to.

Step 22: Once everything is connected. We get to fill the radiator! In order to get rid of all air bubbles remove the bleed screw on the manifold where the upper radiator hose attaches. Fill until water comes out of the bleed hole.

Step 23: Once everything is filled replace the bleed screw and radiator cap. Start it up and check for leaks. If there are no leaks go for a drive and let it get up to temp and watch for the fans to make sure they turn on.

*NOTE* Be sure to keep an eye on your coolant level for a week or so after wards because if there are any air bubbles in your system they will work their way out and your level will drop because the water is filing up the space taken up by the bubbles.

Stock radiator:

ISIS Radiator and Fans:

The 370z, the newest of a long line of Z’s. Proudly continuing the legacy of the only car line in the world that is simply known best as a letter. We all dream of the 370, lets face it… its sexy, fast and sleek, like most people like women. Now what makes sexy, fast, and sleek women better? When they go topless, and this fairlady has done just that…

Now not much has been released about this car, but the more we get, the more we’ll post… stay tuned for updates (And hopefully a test drive sometime…)

A simple instruction video, full of goofy people…